Well we should’ve known. The forecast Monday called for gale force winds on Mont Blanc. Tuesday predictions suggested a slight downgrade, to “STRONG”.
So we set about with the usual back-up plan logistics: booking more hut beds for Italy’s highest peak as contingency climb.
Then in the door walked – no strided – Tom and Giles. Fresh off a weeks intro course with Andy and Richard Dupont. Giles, the marathon runner who’s just completed a training ride the length of England. Tom, the ex-paratrooper with the requisite tattoos to show for it.
We studied the maps. We calculated time spent out above 4000 meters.We drew the line at ascending in classified gale storms (the first we’ve seen on record all season). The boys took one look at their stone-faced Slovenian guide and made the call, “We’re going for it.”
Well, what to say? We knew it wasn’t 50/50 chances. Not even 20/80. We predicted 10/90. And that was simply for getting above the Tete Rousse hut and up the ridge of rock to the Gouter, where the full effect of the winds force would be felt.
So late Sunday afternoon they made the move. Armed with piles of cards, and tricks apparently picked up in Arolla the previous week, the three some set off for Tete Rousse and shared the first 36 hours enjoying all the splendors this hut is known for.
Monday morning early hours came and the call was made not to leave. In fact, not a single group dared to step out the door in the howling wind and cold.
24 hours of waiting continued and then just before 2 am on Tuesday, our guide Tomaz made the call and out the door these guys went.
The details I’ll spare as the forecast alone tells most of the story. But on up they continued. Past the Gouter, into the wind, beyond the helicopter (pictured) whisking off a weary team, beyond team after team as they watched those around them turn and retreat, and on finally to the summit. One of only four teams not turned back by the cold and the misery!
On return to the valley, our guide looked a bit windblown, Tom and Giles still grinning ear to ear even if they could barely keep their heads up at that stage. If we’ve tired out a paratrooper, I’d say it was a solid day out.
Thanks for keeping our summit rates high guys.



